To plant a bare-root tree, soak the roots for one to two hours. Dig a hole two to two-and-a-half times wider than the roots and only as deep as them, so the trunk flare sits level with the ground. Spread the roots over a soil mound, backfill with native soil and water deeply.
This guide shows how to plant bare root trees, from the moment the box lands on your porch to the tree's first full season in the ground. It comes from TN Nursery's customer education site. We are a third-generation family nursery in Altamont, Tennessee, growing native trees and plants since 1959, and we ship most of our trees bare-root and dormant.
What a dormant bare-root tree looks like when the box arrives
A bare-root tree is dug while it is asleep for the season and shipped with no soil around its roots. When you open the box, expect a slender trunk or whip with no leaves, and a bundle of roots wrapped in moist packing to keep them from drying out. It can look like a stick. That is normal: a dormant tree spends its energy on roots first and puts out leaves once the soil warms.
To check that a tree is alive, try two quick tests:
- Scratch test: scrape a small patch of bark on a twig with your thumbnail. Green or creamy tissue underneath means the tree is alive.
- Bend test: bend a thin twig gently. A living twig flexes; a dead one snaps dry and brittle.
- Root check: healthy roots feel firm and moist, not mushy or papery dry. Snip off any broken or damaged root ends with clean pruners before planting.
When to plant bare root trees: fall, winter and spring
Bare-root trees go in the ground while they are dormant, from late fall to early spring, whenever the soil is not frozen or waterlogged. Each product page on our store shows when that tree ships, so you can plan your planting day before it arrives.
| Season | Can you plant? | What to know |
|---|---|---|
| Fall, after leaf drop | Yes | Roots keep growing in cool soil, so the tree is settled before spring. |
| Winter | Yes, on days the ground can be dug | Wait out frozen or soggy ground; hold the tree as described below. |
| Early spring, before buds open | Yes | Plant as early as the soil can be worked, so roots establish before summer heat. |
| Late spring and summer | Not for bare-root trees | Leafed-out trees lose water faster than new roots can replace it. |
Holding trees until planting day
Bare-root trees can wait a day or two in their box somewhere cool, up to about a week if the roots stay damp, and longer once heeled in: a few weeks in spring, or all winter for trees that arrive in fall. The best day to plant is still the day they arrive.
- A day or two: leave the trees in their packing, keep the roots damp, and store the box somewhere cool and shaded, such as an unheated garage. Iowa State Extension suggests a cool spot around 40°F.
- Up to about a week: check the packing every day or two and mist the roots if they feel dry. Never let them dry out, and keep them out of sun and heat.
- Longer than a week: heel the trees in. Dig a shallow, V-shaped trench in a shady spot, lay the trees in at an angle, and cover only the roots with loose soil. Water the soil lightly. Keep soil off the trunk to prevent rot.
Heeled-in trees can wait a few weeks in spring. Trees that arrive in fall can stay heeled in over winter, then be planted early the following spring. Read more on holding trees from Iowa State University Extension.
How to plant bare root trees in the ground, step by step
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Soak the roots for one to two hours
Unwrap the roots and stand them in a bucket of water. Iowa State Extension recommends one to two hours. Do not leave them soaking for days.
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Dig a wide, shallow hole
Make the hole two to two-and-a-half times wider than the spread of the roots. Dig it only as deep as the distance from the trunk flare, where the trunk widens into the roots, to the root tips.
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Build a cone of soil
Pile a mound of loose soil in the center of the hole. Set the tree on top and spread the roots down and out over it, with no roots twisted, bent or circling.
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Set the depth by the trunk flare
Lay a shovel handle across the hole. The trunk flare should sit even with the surrounding ground. On a grafted fruit tree, keep the graft bulge above the soil.
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Backfill with the soil you dug out
Refill with the original soil and firm it gently with your hands to remove air pockets. Skip compost or potting mix in the hole, so roots reach out into the native soil.
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Water in twice
Water when the hole is about three-quarters full, then again once the soil reaches the surrounding grade. Shape a low ring of soil around the root zone to hold water.
These steps follow the bare-root planting guide from Iowa State University Extension, which also covers planting depth and staking.
How do I care for bare root trees?
Care in the first year is mostly water and patience. Water once or twice a week whenever the soil is dry, all through the first growing season. Spread mulch around the base to hold moisture, keeping it pulled back from the trunk.
- Staking: only stake a tree that cannot stand on its own. Use two or three stakes in firm soil outside the hole, with wide, flexible ties that let the trunk move a little. Remove them the next spring.
- Leaf-out: bare-root trees often leaf out later than trees nearby. If the scratch test still shows green, give it time.
- Pruning: trim only broken or dead branches at planting. The tree needs its buds to make leaves.
Which is the most common mistake made in tree planting?
Planting too deep. When the trunk flare is buried, the tree can struggle or die over the following years. If you cannot see the flare where the trunk meets the ground, the tree is too low. Other mistakes to avoid:
- Letting the roots dry out between the box and the hole.
- Digging a deep, narrow hole instead of a wide, shallow one.
- Filling the hole with rich compost, which keeps roots from spreading into the native soil.
- Skipping water in the first summer, when new roots are still small.
Fast-growing bare-root trees to start with
If you want shade and height sooner, our fast-growing trees are ready for the steps above once they arrive. A few to consider:
- Red Sunset Maple Tree: a uniform, thickly branched crown that fills in to a closed canopy by summer.
- Red Maple Tree: a fast-growing native shade tree for full sun or part shade, shipped at 1 to 5 feet.
- Sycamore Tree: a long-lived native of eastern North America.
For more choices, browse our shade trees or the full range of trees.
